Namibia's Caprivi Strip: 1

by Christopher Hines, from Bulletin of the African Bird Club, volume 3.2, September 1996.

(Chris Hines, who is ABC Representative for Namibia, leads tours in Namibia – write to: Christopher Hines, PO Box 22527, Windhoek, Namibia.)

Namibia's Caprivi Strip is a long narrow extension of land, running about 450 km from the north-east corner of the main body of the country to the flood-plains and islands of the Zambezi River. Named after Chancellor Bismark's successor, Leo Graf von Caprivi, the strip was ceded to colonial Germany by the British. At the time Germany and Portugal wanted both to stop the northward advance of British colonialism and then join their own East African colonies (Tanzania and Mozambique) to their western colonies (now Namibia and Angola).

Cecil Rhodes was quicker off the mark and was able to bamboozle tribal leaders in what is now Botswana, Zambia and Malawi into agreements with his British South Africa Company, thereby halting the German and Portuguese plan. The Germans, however, came to an understanding with the British government and were ceded the Caprivi Strip in order to give them riparian access to the Zambezi. Why the British did this is anyone's guess, but the oddities of a colonial past have certainly opened opportunities for birders.

With more than 450 species recorded in this small area and a reasonably good infrastructure, the Caprivi Strip is one of southern Africa's top birding spots. For birders in pursuit of Okavango specials, such as Slaty Egret and Coppery-tailed Coucal it has the distinct advantage of costing a fraction of the amount one would spend on a journey in neighbouring Botswana.

I have tried to cover most of the important bird sites between Rundu and the eastern flood-plains of the Zambezi River. The best time to visit the area is without doubt the austral summer, particularly the wet season from November to April, when most of the migrants are present and resident species are in breeding plumage.

I have assumed that most visitors to the area will be coming from the south and west (ie. Etosha National Park) and the route described is along the main road from Rundu to Katima Mulilo. The construction of a new tar road through the Caprivi has opened up the region considerably and even during the main wet season from December to March most of the sites described can be accessed by two wheel-drive vehicles. For birders interested in getting out into more remote areas with poor roads a four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended, but my advice is to be very careful. Should you get seriously stuck it can be days before someone comes along or a long walk to the nearest settlement to get help. Ask about local road conditions before attempting some of the trickier areas.

Malaria is an endemic, year round problem and prophylaxis are recommended for all visitors. Personal security is not a serious risk and most people are friendly and helpful, but take basic precautions: lock valuables out of sight and don't leave your vehicle unattended in the bigger towns at night. When planning to bird along borders or near borderposts etc, check with local officials and lodge owners on the current security situation. There have been minor flare-ups particularly along the Angolan border and although nothing serious has ever happened, it could spoil your holiday.

The Sites West to East

Rundu
Rundu makes a good overnight stop for those birders who cannot go all the way through to Popa Falls. There is a wide variety of accommodation, from budget camping to fairly upmarket lodges. There is some reasonable birding around Sarasunga River Lodge (also has a camp ground), but none of the establishments is particularly geared towards birders. It is important to check the current security situation with local lodge owners before birding along the river front. Another drawback with birding in this area is the amount of disturbance from Rundu's large population.

About 5 km south of the town (about 1 km from the turnoff to the airport and military camp) the main road (B8) crosses a well-developed drainage line. All the waste water from the military camp drains into this omuramba and the reedbeds and ponds are sometimes good for waterbirds. Lesser Moorhen, Allen's Gallinule, African Crake, African Snipe and Black Crake are regularly recorded here. African Reed Warbler, Sedge Warbler, Yellow-crowned (Golden) Bishop, Red-shouldered Widow and Common Waxbill are also common. Early mornings and late afternoons are best at this spot and you may be rewarded with views of Greater Painted-Snipe, several species of nightjar and with luck a Bat Hawk.

Lesser Moorhen, Namibia (Kevin Bartlett)

The sewage works lie immediately adjacent to the golf club. The security fencing has all been stolen from around the ponds and you will always find a number of people in the area, occasionally hunting. Although this tends to detract from the birding a list of over 100 species should be easily achieved in a morning. The best areas to bird are the upper settling ponds, which are usually good for a variety of terns and waders (including White-fronted Sand-Plover), and the flooded reed areas on the riverside of the ponds. Bird numbers depend to a large extent on water levels, which fluctuate markedly, but several species of heron should be present year round including Little Bittern, Slaty Egret and Dwarf Bittern have also been recorded, usually during the wet season. The latter tends to favour the areas of short grass near dense bush or trees, where they will often perch after being disturbed.