African Bird Club

Cape Town-arguably Africa's most beautiful city-is a phenomenal base from which to bird South Africa. Two weeks in the vicinity of the city could yield over 400 species, including 47 of the country's 58 endemics and near-endemics, and 126 of southern Africa's 180 endemics, making it an indispensable destination for anyone interested in the continent's birds. This article outlines the best birding spots and routes, specifically targeting endemics, both South and southern African. The amount of time required to bird each route is suggested and the birding, scenery and general tourism features are all rated. Prices in Rand (R) are quoted. At the time of writing (April 1999) US$ 1 = R 6.3, with the Rand falling constantly.

Getting around
Birding around Cape Town by public transport is possible, but exceptionally difficult. The majority of the sites listed here are not accessible using public transport and one would have to take general or specialist tours to get there. If you want to "DIY", the best option is car hire: the major agents at the airport are Budget (27-21-9340216), Avis (27-21-934-0808/88) and Hertz (27-21-386-1560), but some smaller operators with cheaper options include Cape Car Hire (27-21-683-2441), Safari rentals (4x4s & minibuses, permitted into neighbouring states 27-21-644-895) and Affordable Car Hire (27-21-439-1899). For more information on guided tours in the western Cape see Sugarbird's Home Page.

Accommodation
Accommodation (and price and quality) options vary dramatically in Cape Town; for a full review check out Sugarbirds' Home Page; in particular, two excellent and very affordable guest houses exist on the peninsula that cater principally for birders. Windy Ridge (Tel/Fax: 27-21-786-1414; E-mail: avianleisure@netpoint.co.za) in Simonstown and Afton Grove (Tel: 785-2992; Fax: 785-3456; E-mail: birders@afton.co.za ; in Noordhoek are both superb, run by birders and come highly recommended.

Cape Peninsula (1-2 days) - The Cape of Storms!
Birds: 7/10; Scenery 10/10; General tourism value: 10/10
Forced from the ocean bed by incomprehensible tectonic forces, a spectacular 1 km high and 70 km long mass of sandstone juts out into one of the most hostile oceans in the world, the southern Atlantic-this is the Cape Peninsula. This route should take one day, although it has been broken up into various subsections should one choose to proceed at a more leisurely pace.

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens
The best place to begin is the world-renowned Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens on the hind ridge of Table Mountain. Ideally situated close to town, one will be rewarded by spending as little as one hour in the gardens. To get there from town, take Eastern Boulevard (M3) and proceed along Union Avenue. At the Rhodes Drive intersection, c 2 km beyond the red-roofed university, turn right. The gardens are a further 2 km along Rhodes Drive and are well signposted. Several fynbos specialities can be seen with remarkable ease in the cultivated erica and protea gardens (ask for a map at the entrance point) including the skulking Grassbird Sphenoeacus afer, energetic Orange-breasted Sunbird Nectarinia violacea and flamboyant Cape Sugarbird Promerops cafer. Other specialities include Cape Siskin Serinus totta, Cape Bulbul Pycnonotus capensis and the remarkably tame Cape Francolin Francolinus capensis. Also common in the gardens are other South African endemics such as Lesser Double-collared Sunbird Nectarinia chalybea, Karoo Prinia Prinia maculosa, Southern Boubou Laniarius ferrugineus, Cape White-eye Zosterops pallidus, Cape Sparrow Passer melanurus and Grey-backed Cisticola Cisticola subruficapilla. Keep your eyes peeled skywards for Forest Buzzard Buteo oreophilus, which is regularly seen along with the more common (and potentially confusing) Steppe Buzzard Buteo buteo vulpinus. The tall avenue of oak trees near the garden's entrance, behind the conservatory, has regularly held a breeding pair of Spotted Eagle Owl Bubo africanus.

Cape Sugarbird,
Promerops cafer
(Sugarbird Images)

The Afro-montane forest patches, particularly in Skeleton gorge, support Forest Canary Serinus scotops, Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta, Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis, Cape Batis Batis capensis, Cinnamon Dove Aplopelia larvata, Rameron Pigeon Columba arquatix and the noisy Sombre Bulbul Andropadus importunus. The main attraction is Knysna Warbler Bradypterus sylvaticus, a species more usually heard than seen. Chances are best in September-November when it is most vociferous and responsive, at the top of the gorge where the vegetation is sparser.

Farther up-slope, the gardens revert to natural fynbos vegetation and rocky outcrops, where Cape Siskin, Ground Woodpecker Geocolaptes olivaceus, Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris, Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus, Cape Rock Thrush Monticola rupestris and White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis are common, and overhead watch for Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus, Alpine Apus melba, Black A. barbatus and Little Swifts A. affinis. Similar species can be found by taking the cable car to the top of the mountain, which holds more species of flowering plant than the British Isles.

Wildevoëlvlei and Kommetjie
From Kirstenbosch, head south in the direction of Hout Bay along the M63-which turns into the spectacular Chapmans Peak drive after passing through Hout Bay. As this descends into Noordhoek, keep going straight until you reach Sun Valley; turn right at the T-junction; soon you reach an intersection-turn right onto the M65 (Kommetjie Road). After c4 km you reach an industrial park, with a large wetland on your right-this is Wildevoëlvlei. For access to the marsh, turn into the housing development at Imhoff's Gift, and park in Rameron Avenue.

Some excellent and unusual birds are regularly seen here, including White-backed Duck Thalassornis leuconotus, Maccoa Duck Oxyura maccoa, Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus, Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis, African Marsh Harrier Circus ranivorus and Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax. A host of more common waterfowl also occurs. At the time of writing this wetland was suffering eutrophication problems and it would be wise to obtain more information about its status before planning a visit.

Leaving Wildevoëlvlei, continue south-west along Kommetjie Road. Once in Kommetjie, take the turn to the right immediately beyond the Kommetjie Hotel. This is the last turn before the road ascends to a scenic coastal drive toward Scarborough. This road skirts the hotel parking area and continues past a large tidal pool to the wind-buffeted Kommetjie promontory-park here. Scan the rocks and tidal pool for Benguela-endemics such as Hartlaub's Gull Larus hartlaubii, Bank Phalacrocorax neglectus, Crowned P. coronatus and Cape Cormorants P. capensis, African Black Oystercatcher Haematopus moquini, and other species such as White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus and Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus. In winter, the sea should be scanned for pelagic species that occasionally venture inshore. White-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis, Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus, Cape Gannet Sula capensis (all year) and South Polar Skua Catharacta maccormicki are regularly seen and it would not be surprising to see a Shy Diomedea cauta or Black-browed Albatross D. melanophris effortlessly dipping below the horizon. Winter also brings Antarctic Tern Sterna vittata to the roost that regularly gathers in the tidal pool. Sift through the Swift S. bergii and Sandwich Terns S. sandvicensis, and in summer Arctic S. paradisaea and Common Terns S. hirundo, in search of something rare. Check the tide tables as more birds roost at low tide; weekends should also be avoided as fishermen and boat launching disturbs the roost. If, at first, you do not see all the species you are seeking, take a walk north along the beach as birds roost there also. An early morning walk here may reward the vigilant observer with a Cape Clawless Otter Aonyx capensis capensis.

Cape Point Nature Reserve
Continue south along the M65, past Misty Cliffs and Scarborough, to the Cape Point Nature Reserve. Forming the southern portion of the peninsula, this reserve can also be reached from Muizenberg and Simon's Town via the M4. You can enjoy the reserve's sensational and idyllic scenery while looking for additional fynbos specialities, including the numerous Orange-breasted Sunbird and Cape Sugarbird, as well as seabirds from the south-westernmost point in Africa. Don't miss the opportunity to scan for albatrosses and the occasional Peregrine Falcon at the Cape Point lighthouse. The viewing sites at the point also hold Cape Siskin. Other species include Cape Bulbul, Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus, Fiscal Flycatcher Sigelus silens, Bokmakierie Malaconotus zeylonus, Southern Boubou, Neddicky Cisticola fulvicapillus and Karoo Prinia. The reserve has attracted many rarities, including a Red-tailed Tropicbird Phaethon rubricauda that established itself on the cliffs. The restio plains toward Sirkelsvlei support Black-rumped Button-Quail Turnix hottentotta and Cloud Cisticola Cisticola textrix. Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa can be found in certain Leonotis patches and the ubiquitous Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio is ever-present.

The reserve is also home to the strange Bontebok Damalisous dorcas and elegant Eland Taurotragus oryx. Beware of the Chacma Baboons Papio ursinus - they have become decidedly cheeky within the reserve - and please don't feed them. A minimum entry fee of R 20 (or R 10 p/p whichever is more) is charged.

Boulders Bay
Leaving the reserve, return to Cape Town along the False Bay coastline, via the M4. As you enter suburban Simonstown, look for a golf course on the right (coastal) side. At the northern perimeter of the golf course turn right onto Bellevue Road. Start looking for penguins immediately. The colony is expanding, and birds have been recorded attempting to incubate golf balls! This idyllic spot consists of white beaches, protected by large granite boulders, and permanently inhabited by the little black-and-white suited Jackass Penguin Spheniscus demersus. A must-see venue, the birds can be approached extremely closely. African Black Oystercatcher and Cape and Crowned Cormorants are regularly seen on the rocks. The strandveld vegetation holds White-backed Mousebird Colius colius, Lesser Double-collared Sunbird and occasionally Cape Sugarbird.

Strandfontein Sewage Works
To visit this site one requires a waiver issued by the Cape Bird Club (Tel: 27-21-686-8795) on behalf of the Cape Metropolitan Council. Please ensure you have one before visiting. From Simonstown head north along the coastal road. Beyond Clovelly, do not take Boyes Drive, which heads up the mountainside, but continue along the coastal road to Muizenberg. From there take Baden Powell Drive (R 310) and turn into Strandfontein Road (M17) c 7 km from the circle. After 4 km turn left to Zeekoevlei and the sewage works are on the northern shore of False Bay. One of the best wetland sites in South Africa, it holds up to 94 species of waterbird, 45 breeding species, including the endemic South African Shelduck Tadorna cana and Cape Shoveler Anas smithii and (in summer) many waders and terns.

| The Cape to Kalahari: 2 |

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