African Bird Club

South Africa's arid interior does not offer the highest bird diversity, but by far the highest proportion of endemics; every second bird seen here is not seen anywhere else in the world! The closest site to Cape Town offering 'real' Karoo birds is Tankwa Karoo. Largely untouched by development and criss-crossed with dirt roads, one has to stay in Ceres or camp if wanting to spend more than a day in this area.

Ceres & Tankwa Karoo (1-2 days)-the thirstlands
Birds: 10/10; Scenery: 9/10; General tourism value: 5/10

From Cape Town the easy route is to follow the National Road (N1) to just short of Worcester, where you turn north onto the R43 toward Wolseley and Ceres. Follow signposts to Ceres. Just before arriving in Ceres you traverse Mitchell's Pass and c5 km before town a small kiosk on the left-hand side, called Die Tolhius, has a small parking lot. Occasionally Forest Canary and Swee Waxbill forage on the grass here. The thicket of pastel green Protea neriifolia on the hillside is exceptionally interesting. A small dirt path behind Die Tolhuis leads to a railway. It is possible to walk beside this but beware, trains still run on this line. Search for Protea Canary as it is frequent here-although some time may be required to locate it and keep in mind that Streaky-headed Canary Serinus gularis is common here. Other fynbos birds abound. The mountains are excellent for raptors and there is a good chance of seeing Jackal Buzzard, Black and Booted Eagles.

Once in Ceres fill up with fuel - there will be no more fuel stations until you return to Ceres. Continue east along the R46 over Theronsberg Pass, shortly after which you traverse a small valley called Karoopoort (45 km east of Ceres). Karoopoort is easily recognised as the area where the road changes to dirt and after a kilometre changes back to tar and then finally reverts to dirt again. The river and reeds here hold Namaqua Warbler. Rocky crags around Karoopoort support Pale-winged Starling. The arid flats are only 20 km beyond Karoopoort. The rainfall gradient drops from 1,200 mm p.a. in the Ceres Mountains to as little as 180 mm p.a. around Katbakkies. As you emerge from Karoopoort onto the plains start looking for Karoo Chat, Yellow Canary, White-throated Canary, Ant-eating Chat Myrmecocichla formicivora, Sickle-winged Chat, Pied Starling, Bokmakierie, and Jackal Buzzard and Pale Chanting Goshawk perching on telephone and electricity poles.

Approximately 5 km beyond the Sutherland turn-off a number of small dams appear on the right-hand side, as well as a larger dam on a farm called Inverdoorn; all are private property, so please respect this. Stop on the road and scope for a host of waterfowl including South African Shelduck, Cape Shoveler and Maccoa Duck; occasionally even flamingos have been seen. In midsummer the dam can be dry.

Just north of Inverdoorn two isolated glacial tillite hills rise (one on each side of the road). A narrow road leads off to the east (right-hand side) hill. Park at the base and look for the main prize here-Karoo Eremomela. Generally scarce in the Karoo, this feisty little warbler is not uncommon here. Rufous-eared Warbler, Sickle-winged Chat, Southern Grey Tit, Cape Penduline Tit, Spike-heeled Lark and Karoo Lark are also common. The surrounding plains are reliable for Karoo Korhaan, and occasionally (in winter) Ludwig's Bustard. North of the hills, Tractrac Chats and Southern Black Korhaan are more regular and the kelkiewyn call of Namaqua Sandgrouse Pterocles namaqua is more evident - although getting good views is hard. It is best to look for the species at c10.00 hrs when they tend to drink. Twenty kilometres north of the tillites, a sign to Op-die-Berg and Kagga Kamma indicates a road leading off to the left. Follow the turn for 2 km to a small gully draped in spiky aloe plants. When the valley opens into a small Acacia-lined rivercourse, a narrow road peels off to the left. It is possible to camp at this small picnic site, but keep in mind that facilities are basic. There is clean running drinkable water and a long-drop toile,t and not much else. This place, known as Katbakkies, is famous as being the most accessible site in South Africa for Cinnamon-breasted Warbler-the hardest karoo bird of all. Dubbed a "mini-rockjumper", it often resembles a mouse more than a bird, hopping about in tiny gaps between stone slabs, it may leap out momentarily, only to bound along a koppie ridge at high speed. There are several pairs in the gorges, and walking the riverbed or over the ridge opposite the canyon entrance offers the best chance of these elusive birds. The Acacia woodland is productive for Fairy Flycatcher, Long-billed Crombec, Pririt Batis, Cape Bunting and Pied Barbet. The cliffs and rocky areas hold Mountain Chat, Southern Grey Tit and Ground Woodpecker. At night, Freckled Nightjar Caprimulgus tristigma has been recorded in this area and Cape Eagle Owl has been found on several occasions 4-5 km from the campsite. In wet years Black-headed Canary and Lark-like Bunting can be common. Thick-billed Lark, Cape Long-billed Lark Certhilauda (curvirostris) curvirostris, Red-capped Lark and Grey-backed Sparrow-Lark occur throughout the area. Cape Penduline Tit and Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis occur along rivers and in scrub throughout. Double-banded Courser Rhinoptilus africanus has been seen on the Calvinia road north of Katbakkies, particularly in areas devoid of cover. Black-eared Sparrow-Lark has also been very occasionally recorded breeding.

Keep your eyes peeled for other wonderful beasts, including the magnificent Red Adder Bitis rubida, globally restricted to the Tankwa Karoo and only described in 1997. McLachlan's Girdled Lizard Cordylus mclachlani and the magnificent Armadillo Girdled Lizard C. cataphractus, rolling up to expose its spiny back when threatened, are globally restricted to this tiny portion of the Karoo. Remember to bring a spotlight as a night drive in the Karoo may not yield Lions Panthera leo and African Elephants Loxodonta africana, but it is no less spectacular. Those enamoured by smaller beasts will not be disappointed; Steenbok Raphicerus campestris is common here and you may bump into other antelopes such as Klipspringer Oreotragus oreotragus and Grey Rhebok Pelea capreolus. Genets and mongooses are frequent and you may be fortunate and see Striped Polecat Mustela putorius. Some extremely rare and seldom seen animals are found here, including African Lynx (Rooikat) Felis caracal, Aardvark and Aardwolf - both bizarre termite specialists - and Cape Mountain Leopard has occasionally been spotted in the gully behind the campsite.

Farther afield-the desert frontier

Orange River, Springbok & Bushmanland
(4-6 days) - the diamond coast lark run
If you are feeling adventurous, an additional bounty of endemics lies in the Northern Cape. From Cape Town take the N7 to Springbok. Several Cape Eagle Owl roadkills have been found at Burke's Pass, c15 km south of Springbok-suggesting that it is reasonably common here. At Springbok, either head east to Pofadder or take a loop to find the recently described Barlow's Lark Certhilauda barlowi. For this species, head north on the N7 to Steinkopf and Port Nolloth on the R382 via Anenous Pass. Once in Port Nolloth, take the coast road north to Alexander Bay. Barlow's Lark occurs north of the Holgat River, but Karoo Lark also occurs here and the two do hybridise in this zone. It is therefore best to head to Alexander Bay, and then east along the road to Khubus. At Pachtvlei Picnic Area on the Orange River, a pair of Barlow's Lark frequents the junction at the main road. If you still have no luck, keep heading east, stop where there are dune-type slacks, which the bird prefers - it is common once you reach the turn-off to Brandkaros. Rocky outcrops here hold Cape Long-billed Lark. With prior organisation, it is possible to visit the Orange River Mouth at Alexander Bay (run by the Diamond Mining Alexkor. See the company's website (http://www.diamondcoast.co.za) to organize a permit to visit the mouth). The estuary of this, South Africa's largest river, is the only permanent wetland on one of the world's driest stretches of coast. The dunes south of the river mouth (no access) hold breeding Damara Terns Sterna balaenarum - which are occasionally seen at the mouth. Return to Springbok via Port Nolloth, as the roads via the Richtersveld are poor.

Accommodation options in Springbok include the Springbok Hotel (Tel: 27-251-21161; fax: 27-2251-22257). For cheaper options check the Sugarbird Home page for a full listing.

Head toward Pofadder on the N14. After c100 km a small dirt road heads toward Aggenys. Take this road and look for the distinctly warm red dunes, home to Red Lark Certhilauda burra; Karoo Lark is absent here so there should be no confusion. Continue on toward Pofadder scanning the enormous Sociable Weaver Philetairus socius colonies for signs of Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus which breed in these enormous nests. If you have time for diversions, head north from Pofadder on the R358; Sabota Lark Mirafra sabota is not uncommon and Stark's Lark Eremalauda starki can be found in this area. Onseepkans, on the Orange River, provides other new birds, including small flocks of Rosy-faced Lovebird Agapornis roseicollis.

Your main route should take you south of Pofadder on the R358; after c25 km, turn east on the dirt road to Kenhardt. Thirty km beyond the turn-off look for clumps of small bush interspersed with black pebbly quartz, almost entirely devoid of vegetation-this is the home of Sclater's Lark, a nomadic and opportunistic species. If the fields don't bring luck, check the many small dams where the small larks regularly drink, particularly those on the edges of these fields. Another nomadic Bushmanland speciality usually encountered in large numbers in this area is Black-eared Sparrow-Lark, and when rainfall is significant, so is Grey-backed Sparrow-Lark and Lark-like Bunting. Other, more common, larks you are likely to see are Karoo Long-billed, Thick-billed, Red-capped, Karoo and Spike-heeled Larks. Larks, however, are not the only bounty. The open plains also support Burchell's Cursorius rufus and Double-banded Coursers, Sickle-winged, Karoo and Tractrac Chats, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Ludwig's Bustard, Karoo Korhaan, Chat Flycatcher Bradornis infuscatus, Karoo Eremomela and Black-headed Canary. The wooded rivers hold Pririt Batis and Namaqua Warbler.

Other species more characteristic of the Kalahari that one is unlikely to see farther south include Red-eyed Bulbul Pcynonotus nigricans, Black-chested Prinia Prinia flavicans, Ashy Tit Parus cinerascens and Scaly-feathered Finch Sporopipes squamifrons. This trip is best combined with Ceres and the Tankwa Karoo or Kalahari-Gemsbok National Park.

Kalahari-Gemsbok National Park
Sandwiched between the Nossob and Auob rivers, the Kalahari-Gemsbok-one of Africa's great national parks and South Africa's second largest-covers 960,000 ha. Along with the adjacent Gemsbok National Park in Botswana, it comprises a conservation area of over 3.6 million ha, forming the southern portion of one of the last truly great wilderness areas in Africa - the Kalahari. Cottages and camping options are available. It is worth spending one night at the camp at Twee Rivieren (park entrance), which is excellent for owls, and at least one night at Nossob (several hours drive from the entrance), to spend an early morning birding north of there. Only Twee Rivieren has a restaurant, the other camps have basic shops. Booking is essential and can be made via the parks reservations offices in Pretoria (Tel: 27-21-343-1991; fax: 27-21-343-0905; e-mail: reservations@parks-sa.co.za) or you can contact the park at (Tel: 27-54-561-0021; fax: 27-54-561-0026).

To reach the park, head to Upington via the N14 or N10, and then north on the R360, which is a dirt road, although perfectly passable by two-wheel-drive vehicles. Remember to get there before 18.00 hrs (or earlier if you are booked at Nossob), the gate closing hours. Due to the abundance of game here, raptors are a major feature of the park and over 30 species have been recorded including Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotos, White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis, Martial Eagle, Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus, Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinereus, Black-breasted Snake-Eagle C. (gallicus) pectoralis, Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax and the local and scarce Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera. Secretary Bird stalks the dunes where Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori is common; Ludwig's Bustard also occurs. Waterholes attract Burchell's Pterocles burchelli and Namaqua Sandgrouse, occasionally in very large numbers. The thornveld holds typical Kalahari Basin birds including parties of Pied Babbler Turdoides bicolor, Kalahari Scrub-Robin Erythropygia paena, Crimson-breasted Shrike Laniarius atrococcineus, Burchell's Glossy Starling Lamprotornis australis, Shaft-tailed Whydah Vidua regia, Southern Barred Warbler Camaroptera fasciolata, Marico Flycatcher Bradornis mariquensis and awesome colonies of Sociable Weaver with the diminutive Pygmy Falcon in attendance.

Following rain, a flash of colour is brought by the finches and waxbills, which occur in abundance, as a profusion of annuals and grasses flower and seed. Black-headed and White-throated Canaries, Red-headed Amadina erythrocephala and Cut-throat Finches A. fasciata, and Black-cheeked Estrilda erythronotos and Violet-eared Waxbills Uraeginthus granatinus are most frequent. The Kalahari is also the haunt of a profusion of nocturnal hunters; dusk signals a chorus change and the campsites, particularly that at Twee Rivieren, resound with the calls of White-faced Scops Owl Otus leucotis, African Scops Owl O. senegalensis, Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum and Giant Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus, and the gear-changing churring of Rufous-cheeked Nightjar Caprimulgus rufigena is ever-present. The resonant guttural grunting of Lion adds to the splendid nocturnal clamour. Of course, while birding you are likely to come across other denizens of the desert, including Leopard, Cheetah Acinonyx jubatus, Spotted Crocuta crocuta and Brown Hyaenas Hyaena brunnea, the magnificent Gemsbok (once thought to be the mythical unicorn), Blue Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus, Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas, Red Hartebeest Alcelaphus buselaphus, Springbok, Bat-eared Fox Otocyon megalotis and the fascinatingly social and gregarious Meercat Suricata suricata.

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