The Cape to the Kalahari: 3

The Garden Route (3-4 days)
Birds: 8/10; Scenery: 10/10; General tourism value: 6/10 Located c450 km east of Cape Town, this picturesque and dainty mosaic of fynbos and forest gardens is scattered among a plethora of lakes, lagoons and seasides. Knysna is the closest area to Cape Town holding large tracts of Cape temperate forest and it makes a wonderful base to explore this striking area. Several accommodation options are available in Knysna, check the Sugarbird Home page for a full listing. The most notable option is the Bush Camp in Phantom Forest Eco-reserve (Tel: 27-44-386-0046; Fax: 27-44-387-1944; e-mail: phantomforest@mweb.co.za). This luxurious camp is located within the forest on Phantom Pass and its fast-growing reputation as one of South Africa's finest eco-tourism destinations is not unfounded. All the endemic forest specials have been found on the property as has Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina and other 'most wanted' birds. Canopy towers are currently under construction, exclusively for the use of paying lodge-birders. To reach the reserve, take the first turn to the left on entering Knysna (from Cape Town), before you cross the bridge. Do not peel round under the bridge, but head straight along the shore of the lagoon on Phantom Pass Road for c1 km. Follow the signs to Phantom Forest Eco-reserve.

Many other forest patches exist; particularly good are those at Diepwalle and Big Tree. Further along the N2 (c80 km), the small town of Nature's Valley has many cheap B&Bs and is surrounded by excellent forest. A particularly quaint spot here is called Tourist Lodge (Tel: 27-04457-6681).

Spend most time in the tall cathedral-type forests. Sometimes deathly silent, the twittering of a bird party can break the lethargy of the forest. Mixed-species flocks comprising Bar-throated Apalis Apalis thoracica, Blue-mantled Flycatcher Trochocercus cyanomelas, Grey Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina caesia and Yellow-throated Warbler Phylloscopus ruficapilla sally and glean insects from the canopy of buttressed Yellowwood and Ironwood trees. Be on the lookout for Knysna Woodpecker Campethera notata, which frequently utters its characteristic staccato scream. The cool mossy rocks, fungus-flecked ground and fern glades are home to parties of chuckling Terrestrial Bulbul Phyllastrephus terrestris as well as Starred Pogonocichla stellata and Chorister Robins Cossypha dichroa. Track any raucous croaking which may herald a Knysna Turaco Tauraco corythaix. Look for fruiting trees as they may hold flocks of Black-bellied Glossy Starling Lamprotornis corruscus. Low hooting, particularly in spring (September-November), may bring, with luck, a view of the fabled Narina Trogon. Keep scanning overhead for breeding Forest Buzzard which regularly issue a plaintive kleeuw call. The constant churring of the Cape Batis will give this pokey insectivore away, but the cryptic Olive Bush-Shrike Malaconotus olivaceus is more difficult to see, although it does respond to whistled imitations of its call. On the forest floor, several skulkers - the noisy Red-necked Francolin Francolinus afer and Cinnamon and Tambourine Doves Turtur tympanistra - are more frequently heard than seen. In summer, the piercing pretty georgie whistle of arguably Africa's most dazzling cuckoo, the Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus, is blasted from treetops almost as lush as the bird itself. Also common are African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro, Olive Woodpecker Mesopicos griseocephalus, Black Saw-wing Swallow Psalidoprocne pristoptera, Sombre Bulbul, Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis, Bleating Bush Warbler Camaroptera brachyura, Southern Boubou, Dusky Flycatcher, Eastern Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus and African Paradise Flycatcher. At night, the bubbling call of the Wood Owl Strix woodfordii is not uncommon and keep an ear open for the phantom-like foghorn hooting of the diminutive Buff-spotted Flufftail Sarothura elegans, one of Africa's hardest forest birds to see.

Southern Boubou, Laniarius ferrugineus (Sugarbird Images)

The forest edge also has its specialists, including the bracken-dependent Knysna Warbler, a very difficult bird to see, even when it is calling in September-October. The Knysna Heads hold a significant population of these. Far easier to find is the seed-eating endemic Forest Canary, Swee Waxbill Estrilda melanotis and Greater Double Collared Nectarinia afra and Black Sunbirds N. amethystina. The rolling hills expose chunks of fynbos on their crests. When in flower, the red ericas are adorned with Orange-breasted Sunbirds. Cape Sugarbird, vociferous Victorin's Warbler and other fynbos specialities are also easily seen here.

Also visit Tsitsikamma National Park where Southern Right Whales Eubalaena australis come inshore to breed and calve. In the park there is excellent forest, holding many of the species listed above. The Groot River is known to hold several river-dependent species more typical of tropical rivers including Half-collared Kingfisher Alcedo semitorquata and the elusive African Finfoot Podica senegalensis and White-backed Night Heron Gorsachius leuconotus. Within the park, the Storms River Mouth restcamp, with its excellent cottages and facilities, is recommended-contact South African National Parks (Tel: 27-12-343-1991; Fax: 27-12-343-0905; e-mail: reservations@parks-sa.co.za) for details.

Swartberg Pass (1-2 days add-on to 7 or 8)
Birds: 9/10; Scenery: 10/10; General tourism value: 7/10
This route is only possible if combined with a trip to the Garden Route or Karoo National Park, or preferably both, as it links these two dramatically different destinations. Nowhere is the striking variability of South Africa more evident than on the short drive between Knysna and Prince Albert, taking in the Outeniqua and Swartberg mountains. Temperate evergreen forests cloak the shady southern mountain slopes, well-watered by coastal mists and year-round rainfall, while succulent desert plants cling to the blistered northern valley floors, sweltering in the rain-shadow of the mountains. From Knysna, one should head back on the N2 towards George. Leaving the N2 at the George turn-off, head along the N9 over the Outeniqua Pass and then take the N12 to Oudtshoorn. The many lay-byes are worth a stop, scan for fynbos specials and Black and Martial Eagles Polemaetus bellicosus, which are seen here regularly. Once over the pass, the vegetation will begin to look decidedly scrubby-you are now in the Little Karoo. On reaching Oudtshoorn, keep heading straight-the N12 branches to the right-along the R328 to Prince Albert, following signs to Cango Caves. Take the Schoemanspoort pass and follow all signs to Prince Albert/Swartberg Pass-bypassing the turn-off to the Cango Caves. The road turns to dirt shortly thereafter. As one ascends the pass, the scrub turns to fynbos, with the associated gamut of common fynbos birds. Higher up, the bushes become smaller and the proportion of exposed rock increases. Pause at the top, called Die Top: on either side of the road a group of Cape Rockjumpers can be found. The grating keaurghgh of Ground Woodpecker is not uncommon here. Cape and Sentinel Rock Thrushes can also be seen. Two to three kilometers further, the road to Die Hel branches off left. This junction is excellent for Cape Siskin. A little farther, a large stand of Protea trees hosts Cape Sugarbird, Orange-breasted Sunbird, Grassbird and on occasion, the scarce Protea Canary Serinus leucopterus. Descending to Prince Albert, soaring cliffs with spectacular rock formations line the 20-km gravel road. At high altitude, search for soaring Black, Booted Hieraaetus pennatus and Martial Eagles. As you enter the drier gorge the avifauna changes rapidly-keep your eyes peeled for Pale-winged Starling Onychognathus nabouroup and Mountain Chat Oenanthe monticola on the cliffs, and Malachite Sunbird on the aloes. Just before exiting the canyon, the river supports some luxurious Acacia karoo scrub; stop here for Fairy Flycatcher Stenostira scita, White-throated Canary Serinus albogularis, White-backed Mousebird, Layard's Tit-Babbler Sylvia layardi, Long-billed Crombec Sylvietta rufescens and Karoo Scrub-Robin. The canyon ends abruptly, and c4 km beyond, a small picnic/camping spot is located on the left, just before the Klaarstroom road intersection. Pause here, as Namaqua Warbler Phragmacia substriata and Pririt Batis Batis pririt are common in the grove of trees.

Orange-breasted Sunbird, Nectarinia violacea (Sugarbird Images)

Whether heading back to Cape Town, or on to Karoo National Park, it is possible (and advisable) to overnight in Prince Albert, as the karoo vegetation is most productive at dawn. The Hotel Swartberg (top-range), Rozie's (mid-range) and Huis Adriaan or Hooggenoeg Holiday Houses (budget) are recommended. Call the Prince Albert Tourism Bureau for bookings and more information (Tel: 27-23-5411-366). The small series of hills east of town hold a few parties of Karoo Eremomela Eremomela gregalis. The plains north of Prince Albert are best in the early morning. Although the R353 is productive (bird the Gamka riverbed where it crosses the road c8 km before the N1), if you have time available, take the dirt road to Seekoegat (the only road heading right on leaving Prince Albert), 1 km north of town. Stop and bird extensively in the (usually dry) Oukloof riverbed. If any water is lying, look for the nomadic Black-headed Canary Serinus alario. While driving across the plains, keep a lookout for the low-density Ludwig's Bustard Neotis ludwigii and Karoo Korhaan Eupodotis vigorsii. Stop occasionally to look and listen for Rufous-eared Warbler Malcorus pectoralis and a host of larks in this area (many species are similar to those at Karoo National Park described below). Proceed to Karoo National Park, on the N1, South Africa's premier highway; the entrance is 5 km south-west of Beaufort West.

Karoo National Park (2-3 days)
Birds: 8/10; Scenery: 7/10; General tourism value: 6/10
The Khoisan hunter-gatherers, the oldest inhabitants of South Africa, called the central plateau the 'Karuu', or "place of great dryness". Chalets, cottages and camping are available in the National Park-and there is an air-conditioned restaurant (to book tel: 27-201-5-2828/9 or fax: 27-201-5-1671). Underlying its barren appearance, the Karoo biome is home to some 5,000 species of plant-more than are in Canada. It holds one third of all the world's succulent plant species. The park represents one of the more spectacular parts of the Karoo, with the impressive Nuweveld escarpment, which rises to 1,900 m, forming the backdrop for the lower plains. Despite only 170 bird species having been recorded in the park, it is extremely important for Namib-Karoo biome-restricted species, as well as supporting a host of other arid-zone specialities. The lowland plains have Ludwig's Bustard, Karoo Korhaan, Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes albofasciata, Karoo Lark Certhilauda albescens, Grey-backed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix verticalis, Tractrac Chat Cercomela tractrac, Karoo Chat C. schlegelii, Karoo Eremomela and Rufous-eared Warbler. Black-headed Canary occurs whenever there is seeding grass and water. The belts of riverine Acacia karoo woodland hold Namaqua Warbler and provide food, shelter and breeding habitat for many other species. The thicket and scrub on the slopes support Layard's Tit-Babbler and Southern Grey Tit Parus afer. In very wet years, nomadic Black-eared Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix australis and Lark-like Bunting Emberiza impetuani arrive to breed in large numbers, and are then absent until the next heavy rains, which may be up to decades apart. In exceptional rain years, Sclater's Lark Spizocorys sclateri has also been recorded. The secretive and localised Cinnamon-breasted Warbler Euryptila subcinnamomea, African Rock Pipit Anthus crenatus, Pale-winged Starling and Ground Woodpecker occur in rocky gorges and kloofs while Sickle-winged Chat Cercomela sinuata is found in plateau scrub. The best area to find these species is Klipspringer Pass. At the top of the plateau, there are several stopping points to peer into a gorge that holds most of these species. African Rock Pipit is often heard calling, and is occasionally seen, from above the Fonteintjies walking trail. The newly described Karoo Long-billed Lark Certhilauda (curvirostris) subcoronata is common throughout the park. Other arid-zone species occurring here are Dusky Sunbird Nectarinia fusca, which is a nomad, not seen elsewhere in the Western Cape and Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax canorus, Pririt Batis, Fairy Flycatcher, Cape Penduline Tit Anthoscopus minutus and White-throated Canary.

Gamka Dam on the Grootplaat has the only permanent surface water in the park and supports a host of waterbirds, including Cape Shoveler, South African Shelduck and Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata. The cliffs near the dam have breeding Black and Booted Eagles, and Black Stork Ciconia nigra. Beaufort West has several large Eucalyptus trees which support up to 10,000 roosting Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni in summer; the birds disperse during the day to forage on the plains surrounding the town.

While hunting for birds, you may bump into other karroid beasts such as Cloete's Girdled Lizard Cordylus cloetei, Braack's Dwarf Leaf-toed Gecko Goggia braacki and Thin-skinned thick-toed Gecko Pachydactylus kladeroderma; all of which have minute global ranges, restricted to tiny portions of the Nuweveld escarpment. Other endemics include Grant's Rock Mouse Aethomyis granti, Namaqua Chameleon Chamaeleo namaquensis, Karoo Dwarf Chameleon Brachypodion karroicum, Greater Homopus femoralis and Boulenger's Padlopers H. boulengeri, Tent Tortoise Psammobates tentorius, Spotted House Snake Lamprophis guttatus, Common Long-tailed Seps Tetradactylus tetradactylus and a host of endemic lizards and geckos. The park holds many species that once roamed these plains in greater numbers prior to human intervention. The threatened Black Rhinoceros Diceros bicornis, and the endemic antelope Cape Mountain Zebra Equus zebra zebra (the second largest population in the world), Black Wildebeest Connocahetes gnou and Springbok Antidorcas marsupialis roam here. Threatened species such as Leopard Panthera pardus, Small Spotted Cat Felis nigripes, Aardwolf Proteles cristata, Aardvark Orycteropus afer, Sclater's Golden Mole Chlorotalpa sclateri, Melck's Serotine Bat Eptesicus melckorum, Lesuer's Hairy Bat Myotis lesueuri and Spectacled Dormouse Graphiurus ocularis. also occur in the park. Night drives can be arranged with staff and may prove spectacular, particularly if the mythical Aardvark is seen.