The Cape to the Kalahari: 2

Pelagic magic-sensational seabird frenzy (1 Day)
Birds: 10/10; Scenery: 6/10; General tourism value: 4/10
Ever grimaced while ticking an albatross from land, when your field guide offers more detail than the speck you saw dipping under the horizon? In South Africa, a series of pelagic options exist so that you may scoff in delight as these majestic oceanic wanderers approach too close for you to focus. Many seabird specialists, unsurprisingly, regard the Western Cape as one of the best pelagic birding spots in the world, regularly supporting hundreds of thousands of seabirds. Seabird abundance is particularly high due to the highly productive, nutrient-rich upwelling Benguela current, derived from Antarctica's icy waters. Very few places provide such world-class harbours and ships, a plethora of exciting species and the spectacle of 1,000s of seabirds squabbling over scraps behind fishing boats.

Sailing from Simonstown or Hout Bay, operating trawlers are targeted specifically. As many as 5,000 seabirds, of 15-20 different species, could be awaiting your arrival. Approaching an operating trawler sets one amidst one of the largest seabird feeding frenzies on the globe. Once the initial adrenaline rush is under control, and you have fought off the crippling views of Black-browed, Shy or Yellow-nosed Albatrosses Diomedea chlororhynchos, White-chinned Petrel, Cape Gannet, Sooty Shearwater and Wilson's Storm-Petrel Oceanites oceanicus, you can begin to sift through the clouds of birds in search of less common species. The composition of the flocks, and your chances of seeing various species, varies according to season.

In winter (May-August), one has the best chance of finding Wandering Albatross Diomedea exulans, Northern Macronectes halli and Southern Giant Petrels M. giganteus, Pintado Petrel Daption capense, Broad-billed Pachyptila vittata, Antarctic P. desolata and Salvin's Prions P. (v.) salvini, South Polar Skua and rarely Southern Fulmar Fulmarus glacialoides. Spring (September-October) brings passage migrants such as Soft-plumaged Petrel Pterodroma mollis and Great Shearwater Puffinus gravis. In summer (November-February), the Benguela attracts Palearctic migrants including Cory's Shearwater Calonectris diomedea, Manx Shearwater Puffinus puffinus, British Storm-Petrel Hydrobates pelagicus, Arctic Skua Stercorarius parasiticus and Sabine's Gull Larus sabini. Other summer visitors include Flesh-footed Shearwater Puffinus carneipes, Great-winged Petrel Pterodroma macroptera (a winter breeder on the Prince Edward Islands), Great Shearwater (which breeds on the Tristan group) and Leach's Storm-Petrel Oceanodroma leucorhoa (which breeds on South Africa's coastal islands). Autumn (March-April) brings the best chance of seeing Black-bellied Storm-Petrel Fregetta tropica as it heads for warmer tropical climes.

The Western Cape is known for its variety of vagrant pelagic species. Although unlikely, the following are some of the more spectacular species that are possible: Royal Diomedea epomophora, Grey-headed D. chrysostoma and Dark-mantled Sooty Albatrosses Phoebetria fusca, Little Shearwater Puffinus assimilis, and one of the best chances in the world of seeing the extremely rare and endangered Spectacled Petrel Procellaria (a.) conspicillata (which breeds on the Tristan Group). Check the Sugarbird Home page for latest options on pelagic trips in the Western Cape. It is advisable to bring seasickness medicine as the waters can turn rough suddenly.

Spectacled Petrel, Procellaria (aequinoctialis) conspicillata (Sugarbird Images)

Sir Lowry's Pass and Betty's Bay (1 day) - Traversing False Bay
Birds: 9/10; Scenery: 8/10; General tourism value: 6/10
The nearest place to Cape Town holding a full compliment of the fynbos specials, Sir Lowry's Pass in the Hottentots Holland Mountains is not be missed. To get there follow the N2 from Cape Town to Somerset West and begin ascending the pass. At the summit, a parking lot will appear suddenly on the right-hand side of the road. Cross to the side of the road opposite the parking lot. Beyond the ditch, clamber through the broken fence which is a disused entrance. A wide path, formerly an access road, climbs to the left. Walk north-east, along the upper of the two tracks that lead from a cleared area adjacent to the road. After c1 km there is excellent fynbos habitat. If the ericas are flowering, Orange-breasted Sunbird will be active. Look for protea trees with large yellow pincushion flowers-these mixed Leucospermum conocarpodendron and Protea neriifolia stands are regularly visited by the magnificent Cape Sugarbird. A high-pitched monotonous zitting should give away Neddicky and in wetter vegetation the Grassbird's descending warble (easily confused with that of Victorin's Warbler) is usually evident.

After c1.5 km, a sedge-seep filled with long reed-like Elegia capensis and Berzelia is evident where the power cables cross the path. The sedge beds hold several pairs of Victorin's Warbler Bradypterus victorini - a secretive bird likely only to be glimpsed, as it keeps low in the undergrowth. It is particularly difficult to see in strong winds. Just beyond the sedge, a small and obscure path leads to the left. After 150 m it leads to a shallow gully, where at least two parties of the effervescent Cape Rockjumper Chaetops frenatus are regularly seen. Clamber onto the rocks on the westside, and if, at first, no success is had, head back to the parking lot along the top of the ridge-a party is bound to be seen or heard - listen for the crescendo of their piping whistles! Other species here include Ground Woodpecker, Cape Rock Thrush, Cape Siskin, Black Eagle Aquila verreauxii, Jackal Buzzard Buteo rufofuscus, Grey-backed Cisticola, Cape Bunting Emberiza capensis, Peregrine Falcon, White-necked Raven, Familiar Chat, and rarely Sentinel Rock Thrush Monticola explorator and Cape Eagle Owl Bubo capensis.

From the ridge-top, looking toward Steenbras Dam, one can see a railway-line; the scarce Striped Flufftail Sarothura affinis has been seen below it. Although this bird can be almost impossible to see, it seems to show itself more frequently to foreign visitors! The pine plantations east of the canons and around Steenbras Dam hold breeding Black Accipiter melanoleucus and Red-breasted Sparrowhawks A. rufiventris and Forest Buzzard.

The West Coast (1-2 days)-a taste of Namaqualand
Birds: 8/10; Scenery: 7/10; General tourism value: 6/10
Located c120 km north of Cape Town, in southern Namaqualand, this area's arid and rather bleak terrain is broken by some of South Africa's most impressive wetlands, particularly Langebaan Lagoon and the Berg River Estuary. In the austral summer, the Berg River holds the greatest densities of shorebird on the entire eastern Atlantic flyway. Head out of Cape Town on the R27 via Milnerton. Approximately 90 km from Cape Town, the left turn to West Coast National Park (within which Langebaan Lagoon is enclosed) will be seen. If choosing to continue to the Berg River mouth, proceed along the R27 to Laaiplek, where you cross the river mouth just before entering town.

At Langebaan Lagoon, Palearctic waders abound in summer, particularly Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea, Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola, Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres, Red Knot Calidris canutus and Sanderling C. alba. Extremely healthy numbers of resident shorebirds including African Black Oystercatcher, White-fronted Plover, Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius and the scarce Chestnut-banded Plover C. pallidus supplement these. The marshes and sedge beds hold African Marsh Harrier as well as skulking palustrine specialists, including Red-chested Flufftail Sarothura rufa and Kaffir Rail Rallus caerulescens. The best hides are at Geelbek, where a walking trail to a series of saltpans also exists. Visit at low tide when the mudflats are exposed.

The vegetation and open cultivated fields surrounding the wetlands support an interesting avifauna, including conspicuous species not always easily seen elsewhere. The most absorbing among these are the striking Black Harrier Circus maurus, strident Southern Black Korhaan Eupodotis afra afra, Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata, Thick-billed Galerida magnirostris and Red-capped Larks Calandrella cinerea. Other common species include Pied Spreo bicolor and Wattled Starlings Creatophora cinerea, Bokmakierie, Karoo Scrub-Robin Erythropygia coryphaeus, Yellow Canary Serinus flaviventris and White-backed Mousebird.

If additional time is available, head to Bird Island in Lambert's Bay, one of only six islands in the world where Cape Gannets breed. Here you will be able to watch their crazy antics at point blank range. It is an amazing spectacle that enthralls not only birders-particularly now that a new high-tech hide offers face-to-face encounters with the birds. The island also holds Jackass Penguin, Bank, Crowned and Cape Cormorants.

Part II - The Garden Route

Probably the most under-rated birding area in South Africa, the area between Cape Town and Tsitsikamma National Park, and the virtually unbirded Outeniqua and Swartberg ranges inland, offer splendid scenery and a higher concentration of South African endemics than any other area in the country.

Overberg and De Hoop (1-2 days)
Birds: 8/10; Scenery: 7/10; General tourism value: 6/10

If heading to the garden route from Cape Town, an excellent area to explore for a day is the Overberg and De Hoop Nature Reserve. Follow the N2 from Cape Town, via Sir Lowry's Pass (see part I) to Caledon; turn onto the R316 and continue to Bredasdorp (c74 km). The R316 between Caledon and Bredasdorp is prime Overberg country, nestled on the coastal plain, and sheltered by the rugged Langeberg Mountains to the north, the Overberg stretches to Cape Agulhas - the southernmost point in Africa. Once a series of plains of lowland fynbos, the majority of the original vegetation has been replaced by wheat. It is not all bad news however, as many interesting birds, particularly some rare ones, have adapted remarkably well. Parties of stately Blue Crane Anthropoides paradisaea stride through the area. Although once rare here, more than 30% of the global population now congregates in this area annually. The fields are also home to Denham's Bustard Neotis denhami, Thick-billed Lark, Red-capped Lark and the highly range-restricted Agulhas Long-billed Lark Certhilauda (curvirostris) brevirostris. Occasionally Secretary Birds Sagittarius serpentarius can be seen pulverising hapless snakes near the road. These species are possible anywhere along this road, and numerous stops to look and listen are advised. Stop also in the small patches of remaining renosterbos (Rhino-bush) and strandveld to look for the stunning Southern Black Korhaan.

From Bredasdorp, take the Swellendam road (R319). After 7 km turn right to Wydgelee, 29 km further turn right to De Hoop and continue 10 km to the gate. De Hoop, in stark contrast to the wheatbelt, comprises a unique diversity of natural habitats. These include rugged coastline, pristine beaches and sand dunes, a wide coastal plain holding remnant fragments of the highly threatened lowland fynbos and some bizarre and unique limestone hills incised by the 15 km-long De Hoop Vlei. The Ramsar-designated vlei is actually a coastal lake, often excellent for waterbirds; Cape Shoveler is one of 75 species of waterfowl regularly recorded here. The Milkwoods surrounding the vlei support Southern Tchagra Tchagra tchagra. An isolated sandstone inselberg, called Potberg, rises abruptly in the east of the reserve, surrounded by a sea of wind-derived aeolian sand. This small inselberg is the only home for several plant species, including two spectacular Proteas. It also holds the last Cape Vulture Gyps coprotheres colony (c30 pairs) in the Western Cape as well as small but significant populations of Striped Flufftail and Black-rumped Button-Quail. Other special species among the list of 260 recorded at the reserve are Pied Starling, Orange-throated Longclaw Macronyx capensis, Bokmakierie, Pearl-breasted Swallow Hirundo dimidiata, Pied Barbet Tricholaema leucomelas, Black Harrier, African Black Oystercatcher and eight species of canary Serinus spp. Cape Francolin is extremely tame, particularly at the campsite where they will forage less than a metre away, while Fiery-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus pectoralis is common around the cottages at night, belting out its crescendo call.